Electricity is essential in our day-to-day lives, and most of us take it for granted - particularly in our home. If you stop and think about how much our lives revolve around electricity, it’s staggering just how many gadgets, devices, and tools are reliant upon this form of power.
From entertainment to communication, heating our homes to storing and cooking food - it’s fair to say that we use a lot of electricity! With so many electrical devices in our homes, however, understanding how to safely use and maintain electricity is essential.
Electric shocks and other injuries are common in the UK and US, and the results can vary from minor to very serious. Despite this, the majority of electrical accidents can be prevented with just a few simple measures.
1. Don’t overload plug sockets
As we use so many devices, it is easy to overload plug sockets. Unfortunately, doing this contributes to a huge number of household fires every year. Much of this is due to the overuse of extension leads, which are not always designed to support large amounts of electricity
To lower the risk of fire through overloading plug sockets, get to know both your devices and extension leads. Try to avoid the use of square block adaptors, which are not very safe as they do not have a fuse. Multiway extension leads are a much safer option.
It is also important to check the rating of your extension lead (most have a capacity of 13 Amps), and the power of your appliances, ensuring you are not exceeding this capacity.
2. Check your chargers
The influx of mobile devices such as tablets, phones and computers means that many of us have a litany of chargers in our homes. In fact, 30 million mobile phone chargers are bought every year, with 1.8 million purchased online.
While replacing broken chargers with cheap online alternatives makes financial sense, many of these are poorly made. In fact, during rigorous testing of various chargers purchased online, the charity Electrical Safety First found that none met government approved safety requirements.
Using branded chargers that carry a CE mark means that this product meets EU safety regulations. You should also check that the output voltage for the charger matches the device, to reduce the risk of overheating.
3. Get to know your plugs
Regularly checking your plugs and wires is something we should all practice, but most of us take for granted. Just because you’ve had no problems with a plug in the past, does not mean that it is guaranteed to remain safe indefinitely.
Checking that your plugs are safe is not a complicated or particularly rigorous job and may potentially save lives. The first step to ensuring your plugs are safe is to check for obvious warning signs like scorch marks on the plug socket or sparks, which indicate overheating.
Monday, October 30, 2017
Monday, October 9, 2017
How to Use Electrician Wire Stripping Tool | Wire Strippers
Found near every electrician, both pro and DIY, a wire stripper is an indispensable tool for electrical work.
A wire stripper is a plier-like device that helps you remove the plastic coating around copper wires.
Wires need to have coating-free, exposed copper ends so that they can come into contact with terminals or other wiring for projects like wiring receptacles, installing recessed lights, splicing wires, putting in heaters--every single electrical project you can imagine.
A wire stripper is not a cable ripper, a device used to rip away the outer sheathing that binds the wires together. Once you have ripped away the sheathing, you still need to strip wires.
Wire Strippers Do More Than Strip
Wire strippers perform two actions
Cuts Coating: The series of holes on the wire stripper fit different sized wires. When you press the stripper shut, the appropriately sized hole becomes teeth that cut the plastic coating but leaves the core wire intact and undamaged.
Removes Coating: Continuing the above motion, the user keeps the stripper shut and slides the stripper towards the cut end of the wire, removing and discarding the coating.
Two Types: Normal and Self-Stripping
Normal: For lack of a better term, normal wire strippers are small, flat, and look like pliers. These pliers have a head, and when you press shut the handles of the stripper, the head closes up and forms holes.
They are cheap (around $10, more or less) and simple to use. When they dull, you can toss them out and replace them with little regret.
Self-Stripping: Self-stripping wire strippers--Klein Katapult is one such model--strip wires with what they call compound action. This means that three actions take place when you squeeze the handle: grip, strip, and remove.
After you precisely place the wire in the head and press the handle, the stripper grabs onto the wire, cuts and strips it, and completely removes the casing from the wire. Self-stripping wire strippers are about three times more expensive than normal strippers.
How to Use Wire Strippers
One of the great things about electrical work is predictability. Nothing is left to chance.
It is the same with using wire strippers: once you know how to use them, nearly every wire will be flawlessly stripped.
Find Wire Gauge: Identify the gauge of the copper wire to be stripped. You can find this on the outermost sheathing that binds multiple wires together. With a number such as 12/2, the first number is wire gauge and the second number (referring to quantity of wires) can be ignored. The most common wire gauges in household wiring will be limited to: 14 and 12 gauge. Ten (10) gauge is less commonly found and will be used for high-draw appliances like dryers and air conditioners.
Match Gauges: Match the gauge with the appropriate hole on the wire stripper. The hole will be marked. This step is essential. If you choose a hole that is too big, the coating will not cut and thus the wire will not strip. If you choose a hole that is too small, both the coating and the wire may entirely sever. The latter can be a major problem if you are dealing with wires coming out of a box that are already limited in length.
Open and Seat: Open the wire stripper handles. "Seat" the wire into one side of the hole.
Press: Slowly press the handles together until they can go no farther.
Twist (Optional): If the coating does not fully cut, you may have to gently rotate the wire within the hole (or the wire stripper around the wire, whichever is easier). You do not have to rotate far: just a quarter turn in one direction and back.
Remove and Discard: Pull the wire stripper towards the cut end of the wire, like pulling a sock off of a foot. Discard the casing as it has no further use.
Bottom Line
Wire strippers have holes sized to the gauge of the wire. Since the holes are smaller than the diameter of the plastic coating, the cutting edge on the inner part of the holes will slice away the coating.
The holes accommodate a mid-range of wire gauges. Wire too thick or too thin cannot be cut with the wire stripper.
Wire strippers also come equipped with a wire cutter. This cuts the wire entirely.
Wire strippers can be simple, plier-like devices such as the pictured Klein Wire Stripper. Or they can be complex devices like Klein's Katapult, which promises to cut and remove the coating in one squeeze of the handle.
A wire stripper is a plier-like device that helps you remove the plastic coating around copper wires.
Wires need to have coating-free, exposed copper ends so that they can come into contact with terminals or other wiring for projects like wiring receptacles, installing recessed lights, splicing wires, putting in heaters--every single electrical project you can imagine.
A wire stripper is not a cable ripper, a device used to rip away the outer sheathing that binds the wires together. Once you have ripped away the sheathing, you still need to strip wires.
Wire Strippers Do More Than Strip
Wire strippers perform two actions
Cuts Coating: The series of holes on the wire stripper fit different sized wires. When you press the stripper shut, the appropriately sized hole becomes teeth that cut the plastic coating but leaves the core wire intact and undamaged.
Removes Coating: Continuing the above motion, the user keeps the stripper shut and slides the stripper towards the cut end of the wire, removing and discarding the coating.
Two Types: Normal and Self-Stripping
Normal: For lack of a better term, normal wire strippers are small, flat, and look like pliers. These pliers have a head, and when you press shut the handles of the stripper, the head closes up and forms holes.
They are cheap (around $10, more or less) and simple to use. When they dull, you can toss them out and replace them with little regret.
Self-Stripping: Self-stripping wire strippers--Klein Katapult is one such model--strip wires with what they call compound action. This means that three actions take place when you squeeze the handle: grip, strip, and remove.
After you precisely place the wire in the head and press the handle, the stripper grabs onto the wire, cuts and strips it, and completely removes the casing from the wire. Self-stripping wire strippers are about three times more expensive than normal strippers.
How to Use Wire Strippers
One of the great things about electrical work is predictability. Nothing is left to chance.
It is the same with using wire strippers: once you know how to use them, nearly every wire will be flawlessly stripped.
Find Wire Gauge: Identify the gauge of the copper wire to be stripped. You can find this on the outermost sheathing that binds multiple wires together. With a number such as 12/2, the first number is wire gauge and the second number (referring to quantity of wires) can be ignored. The most common wire gauges in household wiring will be limited to: 14 and 12 gauge. Ten (10) gauge is less commonly found and will be used for high-draw appliances like dryers and air conditioners.
Match Gauges: Match the gauge with the appropriate hole on the wire stripper. The hole will be marked. This step is essential. If you choose a hole that is too big, the coating will not cut and thus the wire will not strip. If you choose a hole that is too small, both the coating and the wire may entirely sever. The latter can be a major problem if you are dealing with wires coming out of a box that are already limited in length.
Open and Seat: Open the wire stripper handles. "Seat" the wire into one side of the hole.
Press: Slowly press the handles together until they can go no farther.
Twist (Optional): If the coating does not fully cut, you may have to gently rotate the wire within the hole (or the wire stripper around the wire, whichever is easier). You do not have to rotate far: just a quarter turn in one direction and back.
Remove and Discard: Pull the wire stripper towards the cut end of the wire, like pulling a sock off of a foot. Discard the casing as it has no further use.
Bottom Line
Wire strippers have holes sized to the gauge of the wire. Since the holes are smaller than the diameter of the plastic coating, the cutting edge on the inner part of the holes will slice away the coating.
The holes accommodate a mid-range of wire gauges. Wire too thick or too thin cannot be cut with the wire stripper.
Wire strippers also come equipped with a wire cutter. This cuts the wire entirely.
Wire strippers can be simple, plier-like devices such as the pictured Klein Wire Stripper. Or they can be complex devices like Klein's Katapult, which promises to cut and remove the coating in one squeeze of the handle.
Electrical Safety Tips from Baldwin EMC
SUMMERDALE, Alabama — With the prediction of Tropical Storm Nate reaching hurricane status by the time it makes landfall this weekend, Baldwin EMC officials are monitoring the storm around the clock and all crews are on storm alert status. The cooperative reminds everyone to take precautions and offers these tips for safety during extended power outages:
• Turn your refrigerator and freezer to their lowest settings and avoid opening them unless absolutely necessary. Be sure to check for spoilage before eating anything refrigerated.
• If you use a generator, keep it outside. Using generators inside can have tragic consequences. Fumes produced can lead to carbon monoxide poisoning. Generators should only be used in well-ventilated areas outside the home. In addition, never add fuel while a generator is running. Turn it off and let it cool first. Do not connect a portable generator to your home’s wiring. Connect it only to appliances, and only used approved properly-sized power cords.
• The use of an extension cord connected to a neighboring home or business is discouraged. Depending on how the cord is connected to the home needing power, it can result in “silent feedback” to the utility's electrical distribution system.
• Always treat downed power lines as though they are live wires.
• Lower any outside antennae and avoid power lines.
Following a storm, remain indoors until the “all clear” notice is given by the emergency management system or your local law enforcement. Roads may be impassable and power lines may be down.
For the most up-to-date outage information, follow Baldwin EMC on Facebook, Instagram and Twitter or visit baldwinemc.com.
Baldwin EMC is a member-owned electric cooperative serving more than 74,000 accounts in Baldwin and Monroe Counties in southwest Alabama, including Alabama’s Gulf Coast. This institution is an equal opportunity provider and employer.
• Turn your refrigerator and freezer to their lowest settings and avoid opening them unless absolutely necessary. Be sure to check for spoilage before eating anything refrigerated.
• If you use a generator, keep it outside. Using generators inside can have tragic consequences. Fumes produced can lead to carbon monoxide poisoning. Generators should only be used in well-ventilated areas outside the home. In addition, never add fuel while a generator is running. Turn it off and let it cool first. Do not connect a portable generator to your home’s wiring. Connect it only to appliances, and only used approved properly-sized power cords.
• The use of an extension cord connected to a neighboring home or business is discouraged. Depending on how the cord is connected to the home needing power, it can result in “silent feedback” to the utility's electrical distribution system.
• Always treat downed power lines as though they are live wires.
• Lower any outside antennae and avoid power lines.
Following a storm, remain indoors until the “all clear” notice is given by the emergency management system or your local law enforcement. Roads may be impassable and power lines may be down.
For the most up-to-date outage information, follow Baldwin EMC on Facebook, Instagram and Twitter or visit baldwinemc.com.
Baldwin EMC is a member-owned electric cooperative serving more than 74,000 accounts in Baldwin and Monroe Counties in southwest Alabama, including Alabama’s Gulf Coast. This institution is an equal opportunity provider and employer.
Wednesday, October 4, 2017
Old House Wiring Identification - Common Problems
The wiring in your home is the highway of power that feeds everything electrical in the household. Over time, parts of it can become damaged or deteriorated and may present a serious fire or shock hazard. But age alone doesn't mean wiring is inherently unsafe, nor does it automatically have to be replaced. It takes an experienced professional to properly assess the condition of old wiring and its ability to handle the electrical loads of your home, but there are a few things you can check for that can give you an early indication of where it stands.
Identifying Old Wiring
The oldest type of wiring system found in homes is called knob-and-tube, named for the insulating knobs and tubes are used to run the wiring along and through the house framing. Knob-and-tube wiring was run as individual wires—one black hot wire and one white neutral wire—throughout the home. The insulators keep the wires from touching each other and the wood other combustible materials. To make connections and wire splices, electricians soldered the wires then wrapped them with a rubber electrical tape called friction tape. Splices typically were not made in junction boxes, like they are today. Given the age of these wirings systems (most date back to before 1940), it's usually difficult to identify the hot and neutral wires because both are essentially black with dirt and dust. Neutral wires may also be a dark color with a white line or tracer, rather than all white.
No Ground
Being a two-wire system, knob-and-tube wiring does not have a ground for safety. This doesn't necessarily make the wiring unsafe to use, but it does rule out an important safety feature found on modern wiring systems. It also means there's no ground to protect appliances and sensitive electronics, leaving them vulnerable to damage from power surges.
It's not feasible to add a ground to knob-and-tube wiring, so if you need a true ground for any circuits in your home, you'll have to replace the wiring.
Can You Keep Old Wiring?
According to the National Electrical Code (NEC) and most local codes that follow the NEC, existing knob-and-tube wiring can remain in use in a house. It may also be legal to add extensions to knob-and-tube systems, provided the proper materials and techniques are used. Historic homes may be granted special permission for various restoration work on knob-and-tube wiring systems. In situations where knob-and-tube wiring needs work, it's possible to splice the old wiring with new non-metallic (NM) cable, using junction boxes to protect all connections. However, this and any other work done on knob-and-tube wiring must adhere to local code requirements.
Common Problems to Look For
Knob-and-tube wiring becomes dangerous when the wire insulation has worn away, when installation or alteration practices were improper, or when it's covered with building insulation, which can cause the wiring to overheat and potentially start a fire. Here are some typical problems with old wiring that are possible hazards and may indicate the wiring should be replaced:
-Cracked, missing, or damaged wire insulation, exposing the metal part of the wire.
-Wiring surrounded by building insulation of any type.
-Exposed splices (not in an electrical box) wrapped with modern plastic electrical tape, usually indicating the wires are not soldered. Exposed splices should be soldered.
-Fuses in the fuse box that are larger than 15 or 20 amps. Old wiring wasn't sized for today's large appliances, which may need 30-, 40-, or 50-amp service. A 30-amp or larger fuse indicates an "overfused" circuit, which is highly dangerous. As a general rule, old wiring should be fused for no more than 15 amps for safety.
Identifying Old Wiring
The oldest type of wiring system found in homes is called knob-and-tube, named for the insulating knobs and tubes are used to run the wiring along and through the house framing. Knob-and-tube wiring was run as individual wires—one black hot wire and one white neutral wire—throughout the home. The insulators keep the wires from touching each other and the wood other combustible materials. To make connections and wire splices, electricians soldered the wires then wrapped them with a rubber electrical tape called friction tape. Splices typically were not made in junction boxes, like they are today. Given the age of these wirings systems (most date back to before 1940), it's usually difficult to identify the hot and neutral wires because both are essentially black with dirt and dust. Neutral wires may also be a dark color with a white line or tracer, rather than all white.
No Ground
Being a two-wire system, knob-and-tube wiring does not have a ground for safety. This doesn't necessarily make the wiring unsafe to use, but it does rule out an important safety feature found on modern wiring systems. It also means there's no ground to protect appliances and sensitive electronics, leaving them vulnerable to damage from power surges.
It's not feasible to add a ground to knob-and-tube wiring, so if you need a true ground for any circuits in your home, you'll have to replace the wiring.
Can You Keep Old Wiring?
According to the National Electrical Code (NEC) and most local codes that follow the NEC, existing knob-and-tube wiring can remain in use in a house. It may also be legal to add extensions to knob-and-tube systems, provided the proper materials and techniques are used. Historic homes may be granted special permission for various restoration work on knob-and-tube wiring systems. In situations where knob-and-tube wiring needs work, it's possible to splice the old wiring with new non-metallic (NM) cable, using junction boxes to protect all connections. However, this and any other work done on knob-and-tube wiring must adhere to local code requirements.
Common Problems to Look For
Knob-and-tube wiring becomes dangerous when the wire insulation has worn away, when installation or alteration practices were improper, or when it's covered with building insulation, which can cause the wiring to overheat and potentially start a fire. Here are some typical problems with old wiring that are possible hazards and may indicate the wiring should be replaced:
-Cracked, missing, or damaged wire insulation, exposing the metal part of the wire.
-Wiring surrounded by building insulation of any type.
-Exposed splices (not in an electrical box) wrapped with modern plastic electrical tape, usually indicating the wires are not soldered. Exposed splices should be soldered.
-Fuses in the fuse box that are larger than 15 or 20 amps. Old wiring wasn't sized for today's large appliances, which may need 30-, 40-, or 50-amp service. A 30-amp or larger fuse indicates an "overfused" circuit, which is highly dangerous. As a general rule, old wiring should be fused for no more than 15 amps for safety.
Tuesday, October 3, 2017
What to do After an Electric Shock
Electrical shocks always need emergency medical attention -- even if the person seems to be fine afterward.
The 911 emergency personnel may instruct you on the following:
1. Separate the Person From Current's Source
To turn off power:
Unplug an appliance if plug is undamaged or shut off power via circuit breaker, fuse box, or outside switch.
If you can't turn off power:
Stand on something dry and non-conductive, such as dry newspapers, telephone book, or wooden board.
Try to separate the person from current using non-conductive object such as wooden or plastic broom handle, chair, or rubber doormat.
If high voltage lines are involved:
The local power company must shut them off.
Do not try to separate the person from current if you feel a tingling sensation in your legs and lower body. Hop on one foot to a safe place where you can wait for lines to be disconnected.
If a power line falls on a car, instruct the passengers to stay inside unless explosion or fire threatens.
2. Do CPR, if Necessary
When you can safely touch the person, do CPR if the person is not breathing or does not have a pulse.
For a child, start CPR for children
For an adult, start adult CPR.
3. Check for Other Injuries
If the person is bleeding, apply pressure and elevate the wound if it's in an arm or leg.
There may be a fracture if the shock caused the person to fall.
Opt for burn treatment, if there are burns.
4. Wait for 911 to Arrive
5. Follow Up
A doctor will check the person for burns, fractures, dislocations, and other injuries.
An ECG, blood tests, urine test, CT scan, or MRI may be necessary.
The person may be admitted to the hospital or a burn center.
The 911 emergency personnel may instruct you on the following:
1. Separate the Person From Current's Source
To turn off power:
Unplug an appliance if plug is undamaged or shut off power via circuit breaker, fuse box, or outside switch.
If you can't turn off power:
Stand on something dry and non-conductive, such as dry newspapers, telephone book, or wooden board.
Try to separate the person from current using non-conductive object such as wooden or plastic broom handle, chair, or rubber doormat.
If high voltage lines are involved:
The local power company must shut them off.
Do not try to separate the person from current if you feel a tingling sensation in your legs and lower body. Hop on one foot to a safe place where you can wait for lines to be disconnected.
If a power line falls on a car, instruct the passengers to stay inside unless explosion or fire threatens.
2. Do CPR, if Necessary
When you can safely touch the person, do CPR if the person is not breathing or does not have a pulse.
For a child, start CPR for children
For an adult, start adult CPR.
3. Check for Other Injuries
If the person is bleeding, apply pressure and elevate the wound if it's in an arm or leg.
There may be a fracture if the shock caused the person to fall.
Opt for burn treatment, if there are burns.
4. Wait for 911 to Arrive
5. Follow Up
A doctor will check the person for burns, fractures, dislocations, and other injuries.
An ECG, blood tests, urine test, CT scan, or MRI may be necessary.
The person may be admitted to the hospital or a burn center.
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